A Local's Guide to Fakarava Island: Paradise in French Polynesia

"Life has a different meaning in Fakarava; we live our days to the fullest from sunrise to sunset. If you love the ocean as much as I do, it’s the perfect place."

~ Emmanuelle Larchet, writer

A view of the famous PK9 beach in Fakarava, French PolynesiaPK9 beach in Fakarava

This article was written by our French Polynesia expert Emmanuelle Larchet.

Fakarava island is one of the 76 atolls in the Tuamotu Archipelago, located at 360 kilometers from the main island of French Polynesia, Tahiti. As it is part of a UNESCO biosphere reserve, it’s a top destination for scuba divers. The marine life is incredibly rich with many shark species, manta rays, eagle rays, Napoleon fish and more...

The beaches are postcards, and life is sweet and peaceful. French Polynesians are famous for their kindness and smiles, and this is particularly true in Fakarava.

Discovering Fakarava

The famous PK9 beach on Fakarava IslandPK9 Beach

I have lived in Fakarava for 3 years after coming here many times on vacation and having fallen in love with the island and its inhabitants. Life has a different meaning here; we live our days to the fullest from sunrise to sunset. If you love the ocean as much as I do, it’s the perfect place.

"The French painter Matisse spent 6 months in Fakarava in 1930 and fell in love with the colours of the lagoon. He used to say that he found his famous blue here (‘Bleu Matisse’)."

The main attraction of Fakarava is the lagoon: snorkeling, scuba diving, swimming, fishing, exploring and so much more.

The island has 2 passes (where the lagoon and the ocean meet): the North pass, Garuae is the biggest of French Polynesia, 1,8 km wide. The only village on Fakarava is Rotoava village where you can find most of the few shops on the island.

The south pass, Tetamanu, is 1 hour from the north by boat. You can go on a day trip or spend a few days in one of the 3 guesthouses there.

The beaches are out of this world

The most famous beach of Fakarava is PK9 beach, 9 km from Rotoava Village, North Pass, after the airport.

You can get here by bike or with me by car. It’s a dreamy beach with a coconut tree stretching out over the lagoon, perfect for beautiful pictures and drone sessions. (Photography by Emma @fakaravaphoto)

You can walk from here to the north pass, right up to the end of the island, and you'll be rewarded with beautiful views every step of the way.

View of the famous PK9 tropical beach on FakaravaJust past PK9 beach

The Blue Lagoon is also paradise with a lagoon inside the lagoon, a true natural swimming pool perfect for peaceful snorkeling and lying on the beautiful soft sand. It’s a half-day trip, taking 45 minutes to reach from the village.

Blue lagoon on Fakarava IslandBlue Lagoon
Coconut palm stretching over a beautiful beach on Fakarava IslandBlue Lagoon

In the South Pass, Pink Sands beach looks like heaven on earth, with amazing colors. You can go on a day trip with a boat or stay a few days in one of the guesthouses in the south.

Several companies go to the Blue Lagoon and the South Pass depending on the weather. It’s highly recommended to book your trip a few days before you plan on making the excursion, especially during the high season from July to November. Same for the scuba diving.

Pink sands beach on Fakarava IslandPink Sands Beach
Pink sands beach on Fakarava IslandPink Sands Beach

Fakarava diving

You can dive in the North Pass and the South Pass (full day). Usually, it’s 2 dives per day, mainly in the morning. They go to the south once or twice a week:

  • 02 Fakarava
  • Dive Spirit
  • Top Dive
  • Kaina Plongée
Grey sharks at the North Pass, Fakarava Island

The Fakarava sharks

Fakarava is a shark paradise with many different species: grey sharks, white tip, black tip, nurse sharks and tiger sharks…

Approximately 100 nurse sharks live in the village, they are called ‘sea puppies’, you can swim with them. They are totally harmless. My dog Lili swims with one in particular every day when he stops to say hello.

Three nurse sharks baskin in the shallow waters of Fakarava IslandNurse sharks feeding on a dead fish
Dog playing with a nurse shark in the shallow water of Fakarava IslandNurse sharks are totally harmless

Check out this video clip: Emma's dog Lili swimming with one of the nurse sharks. She goes for a swim with this shark every day when he stops to say hello.

Snorkeling

Snorkeling is beautiful everywhere here. The water is so clear. It's a snorkeller's dream come true. My favorite spot is in the south at Tetamanu. The abundance of sea life is fantastic.

The Blue Lagoon is another area not to miss. The natural pool is spectacular and it's a half-day trip with the same companies as Tetamanu.

Snorkeling near Tetamanu village, FakaravaSnorkeling near Tetamanu Village, Fakarava

Local culture and traditions

The people of Fakarava are very attached to their culture and their island. They love telling tales of old legends and showing off their fishing and handicrafting skills.

They speak French, Paumotu (language from theTuamotu Archipelago), Tahitian, and most of the locals speak English as well.

Fresh poke bowl on Fakarava IslandFresh Poke bowl

Polynesians are always happy to give a hand, and to share the island’s stories. Music is a big part of the culture and traditions. People here just love singing. Listening to the singing at the Sunday service is a wonderful experience.

Interesting Fact: The church in Tetamanu, the first church built in the Tuamotu atolls, was constructed entirely out of coral. ⛪

Unsurprisingly, the main dish in Fakarava is fish: Tahitian raw fish with coconut milk, carpaccio, sashimi, grilled fish, cooked fish…

We are talking about an island after all! :)

Not many vegetables and fruits are grown in the Tuamotu attols. The foil is coral and sand.

Few ‘faapu’ (vegetable gardens) provide vegetables but in general all the food except fish comes from Tahiti by boat every Wednesday.

Fakarava hotels - Where to stay on the island?

Fakarava has only one small hotel, Havaiki Lodge, near the village, a beautiful spot with nurse sharks passing by.

The other accommodations are guesthouses, Airbnbs and campsites.

Havaiki lodge, Fakarava IslandHavaiki Lodge

Pension Paparara guesthouse has a beautiful spot, with all the beach bungalows a few steps from the lagoon. The food is delicious with local products and fresh fish every day. Prices per night here are around $150 for 2 with breakfast and dinner included.

View of the Paparava Pension lodge at the water's edge on Fakarava IslandPension Paparara Guesthouse, Fakarava

I live behind the bungalows so you will see me if you stay there.

I also recommend Tokerau Village, Vaiama Village, Veke Veke Village and Kori Kori.

The price per night ranges from $80 to $300 depending on the accommodation you choose.

How to get to Fakarava?

From Europe, you have to fly to Los Angeles or San Francisco, then to Tahiti, and finally to Fakarava with Air Tahiti. This flight only takes around 1 hour and 30 minutes.

From the USA, you can fly to Tahiti from Los Angeles with Air France, Air Tahiti Nui and Delta. From San Francisco, the budget French bee airline flies from San Francisco to Tahiti. It’s takes about 8 hours and 30 minutes.

Air Tahiti flies to Fakarava every day except Thursday.

From Australia and New Zealand, you can reach Fakarava via Auckland with Air Tahiti Nui with stopovers in Tahiti and possibly Rangiroa.

When is the best time to visit Fakarava?

The best time to visit Fakarava for me is from October to June, but as the climate changes everywhere now, the seasons change too and it’s become harder to predict.

The only months I don’t recommend are July and August. The Austral winter brings very windy weather and slightly cooler temperatures.

From December to February, it’s Austral summer, it’s hot with rain sometimes. 

Other things not to miss on Fakavara

Va'a, a typical Polynesian canoe, Fakarava IslandVa'a, a typical Polynesian canoe

Go on a fishing trip with one of the local fishermen. I can find one for you and put you in touch with them.

There are two options to choose from: spearfishing or regular fishing. I can come with you to capture some underwater photos and drone pictures.

Have lunch with your feet in the water with nurse sharks passing by at ‘Le Requin Dormeur’ Snack at the Havaiki Lodge. They're open from 11am to 3pm every day and no booking's needed.

Electric bike on the beach, Fakarava Island

Take a bike to explore the island on its only road. I rent electric and regular bikes; you can find me on Instagram @fakaravaebike

Visiting a pearl farm is one of the more interesting experiences here on Fakarava that's definitely worth doing.

Learn the shell-to-jewelry process at the Havaiki Lodge every Monday, Wednesday and Friday morning. This is completely free and again no booking is required.

Tetamanu village, Fakarava IslandOld village of Tetamanu

Visit the village and the local craft shops. Although you won't find too many shops here, there are a few craft shops with some fascinating items.

Go to Tetamanu to visit the old main village with the first Christian church of Tuamotu Islands, and snorkel in the best spot in the world.

Several companies go to the south: Rotoava excursions, Tamatoa excursions, Havaiki Lodge. You will have to book as soon as you are in Fakarava, especially during the high season from July to November.

And finally, make sure you enjoy a cocktail watching the sunset at Havaiki Lodge! Do this as often as you can while in Fakarava. :)

It's a really special experience!

Snorkeling with sharks and other sea creatures in Tetamanu South Pass on Fakarava Island
Sunset view from the Paparara Guesthouse on Fakarava
Emmanuelle Larchet in Fakarava, French Polynesia

About the Writer

Emmanuelle LARCHET, aka Emma, or ‘Boucles d’Or’ in Fakarava is a former real estate agent in Saint-Tropez, France who specialised in holiday rentals for 15 years.

After 5 holidays in this French Polynesian paradise, it was more and more difficult to leave and lucky her, she had the opportunity 3 years ago to start a new life in Fakarava. Her companion, Bruno, started a vanilla greenhouse, the first of its kind on the island, while Emma runs several activities.

As a Fakarava photo specialist, she works with local tourism providers as community manager and photographer. She can take you to her favorite spots for a visit or a photo shoot with her drone, camera and underwater dome.

She also rents electric bikes, the best way to explore the island on your own. She'll be happy to give you her best tips for an idyllic stay, and she can organize your activities and bookings as she offers concierge services as well.

Check out her Instagram pages to learn more about life in Fakarava:

@emmanuellelarchet

@fakaravaebike

@fakaravaphoto

About the Writer

Emmanuelle Larchet in Fakarava, French Polynesia

Emmanuelle LARCHET, aka Emma, or ‘Boucles d’Or’ in Fakarava is a former real estate agent in Saint-Tropez, France who specialised in holiday rentals for 15 years.

After 5 holidays in this French Polynesian paradise, it was more and more difficult to leave and lucky her, she had the opportunity 3 years ago to start a new life in Fakarava. Her companion, Bruno, started a vanilla greenhouse, the first of its kind on the island, while Emma runs several activities.

As a Fakarava photo specialist, she works with local tourism providers as community manager and photographer. She can take you to her favorite spots for a visit or a photo shoot with her drone, camera and underwater dome.

She also rents electric bikes, the best way to explore the island on your own. She'll be happy to give you her best tips for an idyllic stay, and she can organize your activities and bookings as she offers concierge services as well.

Check out her Instagram pages to learn more about life in Fakarava:

@emmanuellelarchet

@fakaravaebike

@fakaravaphoto

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