To me you come to the Island of Capri for the spectacular scenery of one of the most beautiful islands in the Mediterranean, you come to savour the atmosphere, you come to see the blue grotto.
It's an island capable of changing lives and its beauty infuses the soul forever.
Sadly, during the months of June, July and August much of the world seems to have also decided to visit the Island of Capri and things gets really crowded .
So what's the solution?
Well, if you can, visit during early spring or in September. If you can't make it then still visit anyway – the Island of Capri is very special, even with the crowds.
Where to stay?
The Hotel Caesar Augustus is the ultimate of all the hotels on the island. Yes, it is expensive but when you see what you get it's worth the money. The views from the terrace alone, especially at night, are worth half the bill! Also, amazingly for a five star hotel in Italy, everybody working there is warm, friendly and kind. Makes a nice chance from aloof, snooty and rude. Click here for photos.
More affordable is the lovely Capri Wine Hotel.
Ferries leave from Sorrento and Naples all year round and during the summer season they also sail from Positano and Amalfi. Here are the timetables.
You can't take a car over with you (unless you live there) but buses on the island are great and between the buses, cableway, boats and walking you can see everything.
For such a small island there is a lot to do. You could easily spend three days on the island and not see it all. There are five main sight you'll not want to miss though. They are:
What an other-worldly experience! If you've ever wanted to float on top a blue cocktail while listening to Italian singing here's your chance.
The blue is really indescribable – the photos don't do it justice...it's way bluer!
It might cost 14 euros (includes the boat trip and entrance) but it is worth it - even at three times the price.
Boats leave all day long from Marina Grande to the grotto, weather permitting of course.
A villa of the sort I've always dreamed of owning but sadly doubt I ever will.
It was built in the 19th century by a Swedish doctor who wished to realize his dream of a villa of light, sun and sea. Well it is all of that and more. The views are rated amongst the loveliest on the island while nature and the villa meld into a harmonious whole.
Here you can truly imagine you've died and gone to heaven.
To get to the villa take the bus from Capri Town, the tourist information office in the Piazzetta can help with timetables etc. Entrance into the Villa/Museum is eight Euros.
Marina Grande is where everyone arrives by boat onto the island and there's a beach here too, a free part and another part that you'll need to pay for.
However, if its beaches you're after then rather head to gorgeous Marina Piccola. To get there I'd suggest you take the beautiful walk from Capri, through the Augustus Gardens and down Via Krupp rather than the bus. The tourist office in Piazza Umberto (The Piazzetta) can help you with where to go and tell you whether the Via Krupp part is open (sometimes it's closed for maintenance work).
This is the little square that you'll arrive in if you get the funicular up from Marina Grande. They say it's where all the film stars and other rich and famous people go to be seen. Normally that would put me right off but don't let that ruin it for you – it isn't like that at all.
It's as beautiful a little piazza as any you'll find elsewhere in Italy and it it isn't outrageously expensive either so be sure to enjoy an aperitivo or a coffee in true Neopolitan style (ask for an espresso Napoletano), while listing to the church bells ringing and the languages of a hundred countries .
Also pop into the lovely little Church of Santo Stefano, which is just behind the tourist office, and enjoy the stunning views from the terrace in front of the church.
For views that seem to go on for ever take a walk up to the top of the islands highest mountain. The walk takes around two hours and affords indescribably beautiful panoramas on the way up. If time is limited, or you're not up to the walk, there is a cableway that leaves from Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri and costs 12 Euros for a return trip.
From the top you can view the famous Faraglioni - the three wind and sea carved rock statues that rise like timeless sentinels from the blue depths.
This is the other town on the island, which tends to get a little overshadowed by more famous Capri.
There are some lovely churches here but for me the greatest of pleasures is arriving at around 6am when not a soul is about and the light is still soft. I'll walk and walk around the little lanes before stopping for breakfast at one of the bars in the town at around 7.30am.
Early of course is better but even later in the day Anacapri seems less touristy and more like a “real” town than Capri. Here you can get a taste of actual life on the island.
The Amalfi Guide
Island of Capri