Discover Ireland in Cork

If you arrive in Ireland without a set itinerary or without a prior agenda, if your plan is to go with the flow, just to discover Ireland and let the breeze take you, then no matter where you start from – Dublin, Sligo, Galway – given time, you will at some point be drawn to Cork City.

Don’t believe me?

Come to Ireland. You’ll see, I’m right.

Cork is not the prettiest place in Ireland. It’s prettier than Dublin, but not a patch on Killarney or Westport for instance.

So why are people drawn to it?

Well, you discover Cork and you discover Ireland. You discover a good part of what make Ireland what it is today: the connection with the past.

So many Irish people left from Cork, most heading to the USA, and those with Irish ancestry tell me that on returning it was in Cork they cried. It was here that they fully felt the connection to the old country.

The Force of Attraction

Cork’s magnetism comes from 3 sources:

buildings
inhabitants
food

St. Anne’s Church, Shandon

I start with St Anne’s because, in a way, this church represents the start of Cork. It sits on the site of its very first building: a monastery established by Cork’s patron saint, Finbarre… from where spread the city we know today.

Atop St. Anne’s bell-tower is a weathervane, and on top of that, an 11-foot salmon—Yes, a salmon, affectionately called the ‘goldfish.’ On the 4 sides of the bell-tower – that houses the famous Shandon Bells – are 4 clocks… that don’t tell the right time.

Well, one of them might, but each tells a slightly different time… thus the tower also has an affectionate nickname: the 4-faced liar.

The stories behind the fish and the liar are fascinating. They aren’t told here, but they are told in Cork.

The Butter Market

As well as a butter market, Cork has a butter museum, which one might argue, is an odd thing to have. There’s a story behind that too, which is left to those better qualified to tell it… who, again, are found in Cork.

The Gaol

The Cork Goal looks more like a castle than a gaol, so you might say it’s yet another Cork oddity. The gaol carried out its 1st execution in 1832. Since then it’s had a compelling story. Today the gaol is a visitors’ center, where that story is told… and displayed.

The point I’d make is this: Cork’s many many stories are better heard in Cork.

As a collection of buildings, it is SUCH an interesting, odd, quirky, delightful place, you can’t help but find it attractive.

Staying in Cork

Into that collection of buildings I include The River Lee Hotel, not because it’s historic, but because it’s so artfully modern. Yet it still complements the Cork look. The Lee’s attractiveness extends to its interior, as you’ll find when you book a room there.

It’s a destination hotel, a reason to come.

Cork owes a fair bit of its architectural appeal to Queen’s College, or as it’s known today, University College. Being a student town, Cork is arty, full of song and a tad Bohemian.

(Our Best Hotels story has another upmarket County Cork option.)

The Art of Conversation

I like Cork for the ‘craic,’ which brings me to the 2nd force of attraction on my list, the inhabitants.

To be honest, the idea that Irish folk are more friendly than other folk is, well, a story. Some are more friendly. Some aren’t. In my experience, Irish people are best assessed on an individual basis; and in my opinion, preconceptions about Cork, and Corkians, are likely to be wrong.

But they sure can talk. I presume the weather and the pub culture has a lot to do with that. Finding yourself on Cornmarket Street, there’s a great little ‘snug’ in Dennehys, where the Beamish flows, as does the conversation.

The Art of Drinking

Charlie’s Bar on Union Quay attracts great live bands. But my 2 favorite drinking holes are Fionbarra, south of the river, frequented by dogs and their owners; and the Franciscan Well, a micro-brewery, down by the river on Douglas Street. Their Shandon Stout is yet another draw card.

The Menu

Reading the stories in this series, you’ll notice that many an Irish city claims status as a food capital. To be fair, Ireland is undergoing a food renaissance, so all power to them. Vying for supremacy means more quality for diners.

Cork though is, without any doubt, THE place in Ireland for foodies, and the English Market, another famous landmark, is THE place to buy produce sourced from the county’s pastures, fields, gardens and waters.

Dinner:

You’ll find Greenes in a modernized 19C warehouse, where the mix of old and new is echoed by traditional yet innovative dishes. The emphasis here is on seasonal organic and local. Greenes is touted as a ‘destination’ restaurant, another reason to come, and it is certainly a reason to come – that’s the only way you get to taste the Skeaghanore Duck.

Lunch:

My pick: the labneh salad sandwich at Rocket Man, labneh being a moreish, middle-eastern cheese (made in-house) with local farm yoghurt.

Breakfast

The Irish breakfast at Nash 19 is the best Irish breakfast in town. Oh and do try the black pudding. It’s not the most popular item on the plate, but Nash 19’s 21st century version will convert you.

Coffee

Just follow your nose. The aroma coming from all the beans on display at Filters attracts coffee-lovers from all over. And don’t be put off by Filters’ punk-rock theme. That’s just typical Cork.

They push the boat out here.

The Surrounds

Kinsale

Cork county serves up many more attractions, all of which add to its magnetic power. Some we cover when we take you to Kinsale, Blarney and Cobh; and Cork’s famous Barleycove Beach is visited in our Best Beaches story.

Getting Here

Follow the signs, your instincts and your heart.

Road Trips and Car Rental Advice

For your daily dose of ExquisiteCoasts:

You might like these

4 Top Quality Hotels in Ireland
Discover Ireland's hospitality with my top 4 hotel picks. Luxurious comfort, stunning views, and impeccable service await. Your dream stay begins here.
Around the Beara Peninsula
We assume the best: that when you visit the Ring of Kerry, you won’t be swamped by crowds. But that CAN happen… which is why you might want to hop one over, to the Beara peninsula. Not as mainstream. Just as pretty.
The 5 Most Spectacular Coastal Drives in the World
Each one of these 5 spectacular coastal drives should be on your bucket list. Add at least one to your plans for the next year... you'll be so glad you did.
Killarney: the jewel in the Ring of Kerry
We tend to steer you a little differently. Often, that just means giving some common-sense advice about possibly THE hotspot on Ireland’s tourist itinerary…
Before The Quest 4 The Perfect Beach Begins
There is nothing like a little beach therapy and perfect beach therapy needs peace of mind. Lock that in well before you step out upon the beach of your dreams with travel insurance tailored towards beach holidays
Westport: Ireland's Little Secret
In Westport Ireland they say that when God made time He made plenty of it. My advice:spend as much of it as you can in Westport.
Sampling the South: a 3-stop Tour of County Cork
First stop is Cobh: Ireland's famous port from where so many (America-bound) Irish fled the potato famine in the mid 19-century. After that we head for...
Galway City - The Warm Heart & Soul of the Wild Atlantic Way
Galway City sits in the middle of the Wild Atlantic Way, and is itself a balancing act. It manages to combine cosmopolitan chic, traditional Gaelic culture, and college life… which all mix rather well.
Dingle, Ireland: it's not the wind that will blow you away
Years back, I struck up a chat with an Irish chap, and asked where might I go. He thought for a second and said, Dingle, Ireland's best kept secret . A woman at the table over perked up, said, Dingle? What about Dingle?
Ireland West Coast Essentials & Secrets - From Cork to Donegal
Starting in Donegal County and finishing down south in County Cork - the real heart and soul of Ireland's west coast awaits - click to discover it.
The 4 Most Beautiful Coastal Cities in the World
Phew, this was a hard list to create. We started with 15 cities. With much heated debate we got that down to six... then to 4.
Along the Cook Highway and Beyond
It is said that this 75km Captain Cook Highway is one of the most scenic coastal drives in the world. One side is the rugged coast, and the other side the tropical, lush rainforest. (Tip: you definitely want to...
Sligo Ireland - The Land of Heart’s Desire.
Sligo is a festival city, a party city, a music city, a drinking city, and very much a coastal city. One walks in sea air along narrow streets, over bridges, past colorful Georgian facades.
The 8 Best Beaches in the World
The 8 best beaches in the world. Why is our list different to all others? Simple, we actually travel the world visiting hundred and hundreds of beaches. These are the results...
Achill Island: Paradise at the Edge
When you picture paradise, what do you see? It’s fair to say that pristine blue water skirted by a golden crescent beach, beneath a towering cliff of verdant green… makes for a decent description of paradise. So it is on Achill Island in county Mayo.
4 Bucket List Islands
Scattered across the oceans and seas are 4 bucket list islands. All of them are missing only one thing... you!
The 5 Best Beaches in Ireland
The criteria for these 5 best beaches in Ireland is based on scenery, surroundings and the beaches themselves. One or two are adventure hotspots… so pack your boards, kayaks and wetsuits, and prepare to revel in the best waves Europe has to offer.
Connemara, Ireland : soft beds, hard country
When we came to the Connemara, Ireland decided we'd done something right and, finally, bathed us in warm sunshine. Cruising into the harbor I turned to one of the locals on the boat with us that day, and I said to him… you live in a paradise.

Facebook WhatsApp

New! Comments

Have your say about what you just read! Leave me a comment in the box below.

ShareFacebook WhatsApp

Exquisite Coasts

FTC DISCLOSURE: This site includes some affiliate links. Should you click an affiliate link and make a purchase or booking I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please helps us to keep bringing you the most beautiful coasts on earth by booking through the links on our website.

Also, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.